How to Get Rid of Wasps: Ontario Homeowner's Complete Guide

Common Wasp Species in Ontario

Ontario is home to several wasp species, each with different behaviour, nesting habits, and levels of aggression. Identifying the species you are dealing with helps determine the safest and most effective removal approach.

Yellowjackets

Yellowjackets are the most commonly encountered and problematic wasp species in Ontario. They are medium-sized (12 to 16mm) with bright yellow and black striped abdomens. Yellowjackets are social wasps that build large colonies reaching hundreds to thousands of workers by late summer. They are aggressive defenders of their nests and will sting repeatedly when threatened. Unlike honeybees, yellowjackets do not lose their stinger after stinging and can sting multiple times. They are scavengers attracted to human food, garbage, sugary drinks, and protein sources — the wasps hovering around your barbecue or landing on your pop can at a picnic are almost always yellowjackets. Some species build aerial nests under eaves and in attics; others build ground nests in abandoned rodent burrows, under sheds, and in garden beds. Ground nests are particularly dangerous because they are hidden and often disturbed accidentally while mowing or gardening.

Paper Wasps

Paper wasps are longer and slimmer than yellowjackets, with long dangling legs visible during flight. They are brown, tan, or reddish with yellow markings — more muted in colour than yellowjackets. They build small, open-celled umbrella-shaped nests typically containing 10 to 50 workers. Nests are found under eaves, porch ceilings, deck railings, and other sheltered horizontal surfaces. Paper wasps are less aggressive than yellowjackets — they generally sting only when their nest is directly threatened or when they are handled. They are beneficial predators that hunt caterpillars, flies, and other pest insects. Small paper wasp nests in low-traffic areas can often be tolerated; nests near doorways, play areas, or decks should be removed for safety.

Bald-Faced Hornets

Bald-faced hornets are actually large yellowjackets, not true hornets. They are larger than standard yellowjackets (about 19mm) with distinctive black and white colouring instead of yellow and black. They build large, enclosed football-shaped grey nests that can grow to the size of a basketball, suspended from tree branches, building overhangs, utility poles, and other elevated structures. Bald-faced hornets are extremely aggressive when their nest is disturbed and will attack in numbers. Their nests are visually dramatic and impossible to miss once established. Professional removal is strongly recommended for any bald-faced hornet nest near living spaces or walkways. They are beneficial predators that consume large quantities of pest insects, but this benefit does not outweigh the safety risk when nests are near human activity areas.

Mud Daubers

Mud daubers are solitary wasps that build distinctive tubular mud nests on sheltered surfaces — under eaves, in garages, on building siding, and inside sheds. They are slender with a narrow waist and measure about 12 to 25mm. Unlike social wasps, mud daubers are non-aggressive and rarely sting humans. Each nest is built and provisioned by a single female who stocks the mud cells with paralysed spiders as food for her larvae. Mud dauber nests are unsightly but pose minimal safety risk. Because mud daubers are beneficial spider predators and non-aggressive, removal is typically a matter of aesthetics rather than safety. Scrape old nests off with a putty knife — they crumble easily once dry.

European Hornets

European hornets are true hornets and the largest wasp species in Ontario, measuring 25 to 35mm. They are brown with yellow abdominal markings and are sometimes confused with cicada killers. They build nests in sheltered cavities — tree hollows, wall voids, and attics — rather than the exposed aerial nests built by bald-faced hornets. European hornets are moderately aggressive near their nests and are notably active at night, attracted to light sources, which makes evening encounters common near outdoor lights and lit windows. Their sting is painful but not more dangerous than that of other wasp species. European hornet nests in wall voids are challenging to remove because the nest is concealed inside the building structure.

Identifying Wasp Nests and Locations

Knowing what type of nest you are looking at — and where to look — is essential for choosing the right removal approach and staying safe during inspection.

Aerial Paper Nests

Paper wasp nests are small (golf ball to grapefruit size), umbrella-shaped, with visible open hexagonal cells facing downward. They hang from a single stalk (petiole) under eaves, porch ceilings, deck structures, and other protected overhangs. Paper wasp nests are the most common type Ontario homeowners encounter because they are built in visible, accessible locations. The open-cell design makes them easy to identify — you can see the individual brood cells and sometimes the larvae developing inside them.

Bald-faced hornet nests are large (baseball to basketball size by late summer), fully enclosed with a grey or tan papery shell, and typically hang from tree branches, building overhangs, or utility structures. They often appear high up and grow visibly throughout the season. Yellowjacket aerial nests are enclosed like hornet nests but may be found in attics, soffits, and wall void openings. The key identification feature is whether you can see open cells (paper wasp) or the nest is fully enclosed (yellowjacket or hornet) — this distinction determines the species, the level of aggression you can expect, and the appropriate removal approach.

Ground Nests

Ground-nesting yellowjackets build colonies in abandoned rodent burrows, under concrete slabs, in garden beds, beneath mulch, and along the edges of paths and driveways. The only visible sign is a small hole in the ground with a steady stream of wasps entering and exiting. Ground nests are the most dangerous for homeowners because they are invisible until accidentally disturbed — stepping near the entrance while mowing, walking, or gardening triggers an aggressive defensive response from the entire colony. If you notice wasps repeatedly entering and exiting a ground-level hole, mark the location and maintain a safe distance of at least 3 metres until it can be treated.

Wall Void and Structural Nests

Yellowjackets and European hornets build nests inside wall cavities, soffits, attic spaces, and hollow structural members. You may see wasps entering and exiting through a gap in the siding, a crack in the mortar, or around a vent cover without seeing the nest itself. Wall void nests are challenging because the nest is concealed, making it difficult to assess colony size and requiring specialised treatment methods. A colony inside a wall can grow to thousands of workers before you realise the scale of the problem.

Do not seal the entry hole of an active wall void nest — this is one of the most common and dangerous homeowner mistakes. Trapped wasps will chew through interior drywall, plaster, or ceiling material to escape into your living space, creating a sudden infestation indoors. If you hear buzzing inside a wall or see wasps emerging from interior gaps around baseboards, outlets, or light fixtures, leave the area and contact a pest control professional immediately. Wall void nests require insecticidal dust injected directly into the cavity, and in some cases the technician may need to work with a contractor to access the nest for full removal. Our wasp removal service covers wall void and structural nest situations.

Sting Risks and Emergency Response

Wasp stings range from a painful nuisance to a life-threatening emergency depending on the individual's sensitivity and the number of stings received.

Normal Sting Reactions

A normal sting reaction includes localised pain at the sting site (sharp, burning), redness and swelling around the sting (can be significant, up to 10 centimetres across), itching that develops hours after the sting, and symptoms that resolve within a few days. For normal reactions: clean the area with soap and water, apply a cold compress to reduce swelling, take an oral antihistamine (diphenhydramine/Benadryl) for itching, and use ibuprofen or acetaminophen for pain. A large local reaction (swelling extending well beyond the sting site) is uncomfortable but not typically dangerous. However, individuals who experience large local reactions may be at increased risk for systemic allergic reactions with future stings and should discuss this with their physician.

Anaphylaxis: The Life-Threatening Risk

Anaphylaxis is a severe allergic reaction that can be fatal without prompt treatment. Symptoms develop within minutes of a sting and include difficulty breathing or wheezing, swelling of the face, lips, tongue, or throat, dizziness or lightheadedness, rapid or weak pulse, widespread hives or rash, nausea, vomiting, or abdominal cramps, and a sense of impending doom. If any of these symptoms appear, call 911 immediately. If the person carries an epinephrine auto-injector (EpiPen), administer it into the outer thigh without delay. Lay the person down with legs elevated unless they are having difficulty breathing, in which case keep them upright. Monitor until emergency services arrive. Approximately 2 to 3 percent of the population has a clinically significant allergy to wasp and bee stings. If you have had a systemic allergic reaction to a previous sting, consult an allergist about venom immunotherapy and always carry prescribed epinephrine.

Multiple Stings

Even individuals without venom allergies face health risks from multiple simultaneous stings. A large enough venom dose from many stings can cause systemic toxicity — fever, nausea, muscle damage, kidney stress, and in extreme cases organ failure. Medical literature generally considers 10 or more stings in an adult as the threshold where systemic toxicity becomes a concern, though individual sensitivity varies. Children, elderly individuals, and people with underlying health conditions reach toxic venom levels at fewer stings. This risk is highest when disturbing large yellowjacket or hornet nests, which can mobilise hundreds of defenders simultaneously.

Unlike honeybees, wasps can sting multiple times without dying, and each sting delivers a full dose of venom. A single agitated yellowjacket can sting you five or more times in seconds. Multiply that by the dozens of workers that respond to a nest disturbance, and the total venom dose climbs rapidly. This is a primary reason why professional removal is recommended for large or aggressive nests — the risk of provoking a mass stinging event during DIY removal is significant and the consequences can be severe.

When Wasps Are Beneficial vs When They Are Dangerous

Wasps play important ecological roles, and not every wasp encounter requires removal.

Ecological Benefits

Wasps are significant predators of pest insects including flies, caterpillars, aphids, and beetle larvae. A single paper wasp nest eliminates thousands of pest insects during a summer season, providing natural pest control for nearby gardens. Yellowjackets also prey on pest insects and serve as scavengers that break down organic waste, contributing to nutrient cycling in the ecosystem. Some wasp species contribute to pollination when they visit flowers for nectar. In gardens, orchards, and agricultural areas, wasps provide genuinely valuable pest control services that reduce the need for chemical insecticide applications.

Before removing a nest, consider whether its location actually poses a safety risk or is simply in a visible but low-traffic area where the wasps can be tolerated. A paper wasp nest on a rarely-used garden shed, under a porch overhang well away from the entrance, or in a tree far from the house provides free pest control without presenting a meaningful safety risk. The instinct to remove every wasp nest on sight is understandable but not always necessary or beneficial. Balance safety concerns against ecological value when making removal decisions.

When Removal Is Necessary

Remove or have professionally treated any nest that is within 3 metres of a doorway, walkway, play area, deck, or patio where people regularly spend time. Nests near or inside the building structure (in soffits, wall voids, attic) should always be removed because structural nests grow unchecked and can cause secondary problems like staining from nest material and dead insect debris. Ground nests in lawns or garden areas where they may be accidentally disturbed must be treated — the risk of a child, pet, or lawn mower operator stepping on the entrance is too high to tolerate.

Any nest on a property where someone has a known wasp sting allergy should be removed regardless of location, even in low-traffic areas. The margin for error is too small when anaphylaxis is a possibility. Yellowjacket nests should always be treated because the species is inherently aggressive and colonies grow large enough to present a persistent safety hazard throughout the season. If you are unsure whether a nest requires removal, consider the trajectory of the season: a nest that seems manageable in June will be much larger and more problematic by August.

DIY Wasp Removal: Methods and Risks

DIY removal is feasible only for small, accessible nests in specific situations. Understanding the limitations and risks prevents dangerous mistakes.

When DIY Is Appropriate

DIY removal is reasonable for small paper wasp nests (golf ball to tennis ball size) accessible without a tall ladder, located in low-traffic areas where a failed attempt does not create an immediate safety crisis. Use a commercial wasp spray (aerosol with a stream nozzle reaching 4 to 6 metres) at dusk when all wasps are inside the nest and least active. Stand as far back as the spray allows and saturate the nest thoroughly. Wait 24 hours before removing the nest to ensure all wasps are dead. Wear long sleeves, long pants, closed shoes, and gloves. Have a clear retreat path planned before spraying.

When DIY Is Dangerous

Do not attempt DIY removal for: yellowjacket nests of any size (too aggressive, colonies too large), bald-faced hornet nests (extremely aggressive, attack in numbers), ground nests (hidden colony size, difficult to treat thoroughly, high sting risk), nests in wall voids or soffits (requires specialised treatment, cannot reach the nest with spray), nests accessible only by tall ladder (falling risk combined with sting risk), or any nest if you or a household member has a wasp sting allergy.

The most dangerous DIY mistakes include disturbing a ground nest while mowing, attempting to knock down a large nest with a broom or stick, trying to burn out or flood a nest (fire hazard and ineffective), pouring gasoline into a ground nest (toxic, flammable, and contaminates soil), and sealing the entry hole of a wall void nest while the colony is active. Each of these actions either fails to eliminate the colony or provokes a defensive response that puts you at serious risk of multiple stings. If a DIY attempt fails and the colony remains active, the nest will be more aggressive for days afterward, making subsequent professional treatment more difficult.

Products and Methods

Commercial aerosol wasp sprays containing pyrethroids (such as prallethrin or d-phenothrin) are the most effective consumer product for small nest treatment. The spray kills wasps on contact and provides residual kill on the treated nest. Apply at dusk, saturate the nest and its immediate surroundings, and do not approach the nest until the following day. Wasp traps baited with sugar-protein solutions reduce wasp populations around outdoor living areas but do not eliminate nests. Natural remedies (vinegar sprays, peppermint oil, soap water) have limited effectiveness and require proximity to the nest that increases sting risk. For any nest larger than a tennis ball or any species other than paper wasps, professional treatment is the safer and more reliable option.

Professional Wasp Removal

Professional pest control companies handle wasp removal safely and effectively, using methods and protective equipment that eliminate the risks of DIY approaches.

Professional Methods

Professional treatment typically involves applying insecticidal dust or liquid directly into the nest entrance, treating the nest from a safe distance using extension equipment, and removing the physical nest after the colony is eliminated. For ground nests, technicians inject insecticidal dust into the entrance hole, which workers track throughout the colony, eliminating the entire population within 24 to 48 hours. For wall void nests, dust formulations are injected into the void through small holes drilled near the entry point, reaching concealed portions of the nest that spray cannot contact. For accessible aerial nests, the technician treats the nest with rapid-knockdown spray and removes it immediately. All treatments are performed with full protective equipment and under Ontario's Pesticides Act licensing requirements.

What to Expect from the Service

A professional wasp removal visit typically takes 30 to 60 minutes for a standard nest. The technician will inspect the nest, identify the species, assess colony size, and explain the treatment approach before starting. You should stay indoors during the treatment and keep children and pets away from the treatment area for at least a few hours afterward. Treatment is applied, and the technician may return within 24 to 48 hours to remove the physical nest and confirm the colony is eliminated.

Most companies include a seasonal warranty — if wasps re-establish at the same location within the current season, the company retreats at no additional charge. Ask about warranty terms before booking the service. For complex situations (multiple nests, wall void nests requiring structural access), the technician should provide a written scope of work and quote before proceeding. Reputable companies will answer questions about the products they use and provide Safety Data Sheets on request. You should also confirm the company carries WSIB coverage and liability insurance before work begins.

Choosing a Licensed Pest Control Company

Ontario requires anyone applying extermination-class pesticides to hold a valid licence under the Pesticides Act. When selecting a wasp removal company, verify they carry an active Ontario pest control licence and ask for their licence number. Check that they are insured for both liability and workplace injuries (WSIB). Look for companies with experience in wasp and hornet removal specifically, as the techniques differ from general pest control. Ask whether the quote includes nest removal or treatment only, and confirm the warranty terms. Avoid companies that quote a price without inspecting the nest first — accurate pricing depends on species, nest size, and location. A reliable technician will also recommend prevention measures to reduce the likelihood of new nests forming in the same areas.

Seasonal Wasp Patterns in Ontario

Ontario's wasp lifecycle follows predictable seasonal patterns. Understanding these patterns helps you time prevention and treatment for maximum effectiveness.

Spring: Queen Emergence and Nest Founding

Overwintered queens emerge from hibernation in April and May as temperatures consistently rise above 10°C. Each queen seeks a suitable nesting site and begins building a small starter nest alone, laying her first eggs, and raising the initial batch of workers by herself. Spring nests are tiny — often the size of a golf ball or smaller — and contain only the queen. This is the easiest and safest time for nest removal because the colony consists of a single individual. Weekly inspection of your home's eaves, soffits, porch ceilings, and other sheltered areas during April and May catches new nests early when they can be scraped off with a putty knife or treated with a quick burst of spray. Each queen eliminated in spring prevents an entire colony of hundreds to thousands of workers from establishing by summer.

Summer: Colony Growth and Peak Activity

By June, the first workers emerge and take over foraging and nest expansion while the queen focuses exclusively on egg-laying. Colonies grow rapidly through June and July, reaching significant size by August. Yellowjacket colonies can produce 1,000 to 5,000 workers by late summer. Bald-faced hornet nests grow visibly week by week throughout summer, sometimes reaching the size of a basketball or larger. Wasps are active during daylight hours and are increasingly encountered around outdoor eating areas, garbage, and gardens as the colony's food demand increases.

Mid-summer nest removal is still effective but requires professional treatment for any large colony. The nest doubles in size roughly every two to three weeks during peak growth season. Do not wait — a nest discovered in July will be significantly larger and more dangerous by September. If you notice a sudden increase in wasp activity around a specific area of your home, investigate from a safe distance. Persistent wasp traffic in a consistent direction usually indicates a nearby nest. For homeowners who also deal with other pests during summer, our guide to when to call an exterminator helps with broader decision-making.

Late Summer and Fall: Peak Aggression

August through October is the most dangerous period for wasp encounters. Colonies are at maximum size, natural food sources (insect prey, flower nectar) decline, and workers become aggressive scavengers focused on sugary and protein-rich human food. The colony produces new queens and males in late summer — the workers' sole remaining purpose is to feed these reproductives before the colony dies off. This creates a population of workers with nothing to lose, leading to the noticeably increased aggression that Ontario residents experience at late-season barbecues, fall fairs, and apple orchards.

This behavioural shift is why wasps seem to "come out of nowhere" in September even if you did not notice problems earlier in the season. Yellowjackets in particular become persistent around outdoor food and drinks, hovering around plates, landing on cans and cups, and refusing to be shooed away. The first hard frost (typically late October to early November in southern Ontario) kills all workers and males, ending the season. Northern Ontario sees its first killing frost earlier, often in late September or October, giving residents there a shorter window of peak aggression.

Winter: Dormancy

Only newly mated queens survive winter. They hibernate in protected locations — under bark, in leaf litter, inside wall voids, in attic spaces, beneath siding. Old nests are never reused. A nest left on your home over winter is harmless (all occupants are dead) but should be removed to prevent confusion the following spring. Queens that hibernated inside wall voids or attics may emerge indoors in spring, appearing at windows and light fixtures. These individual queens are not dangerous but indicate potential nesting sites nearby. For broader seasonal pest guidance, see our winter pest prevention guide and spring prevention checklist.

Prevention Strategies

Prevention focused on early detection and habitat management keeps wasp problems small and manageable.

Spring Inspection Routine

Beginning in late April, inspect your home's exterior weekly for newly-started nests. Check under eaves, along soffit edges, beneath porch ceilings, under deck railings and joists, inside open sheds and garages, around window frames and door frames, and near any sheltered horizontal surface. New nests are tiny and easily missed if you are not looking carefully. A queen just starting a nest will have built only a few cells — this is the time to remove it with a long-handled scraper or a quick application of wasp spray. Set calendar reminders for weekly inspections from late April through June. This single habit prevents the vast majority of problematic wasp situations before they develop.

Food and Waste Management

Reduce wasp attractants around outdoor living areas. Keep garbage in sealed containers with tight-fitting lids — municipal green bins and open-top recycling containers are among the strongest wasp magnets on a residential property. Clean garbage bins regularly with soap and water to remove food odours. Cover food when eating outdoors and bring leftovers inside promptly after meals. Clean up spills, fallen fruit from trees, and food residue as soon as they occur. Avoid leaving pet food or birdseed accessible in outdoor bowls during wasp season.

Rinse recycling containers before placing them in bins — residual sugary liquids in cans and bottles are powerful wasp attractants that draw foragers from a wide area. If you have fruit trees, collect fallen fruit daily during late summer when wasps are most aggressively foraging for sugar. Use cups with lids and straws when drinking outdoors to prevent wasps from entering your beverage. These practices do not prevent nesting but significantly reduce the number of foraging wasps visiting your outdoor spaces and make patios, decks, and backyards more usable throughout the active season.

Structural Prevention

Seal gaps in soffits, fascia, and siding that provide access to wall voids and attic spaces. Repair damaged vent covers and ensure all exterior vents have intact, tight-fitting screens. Install chimney caps to prevent wasps from entering through chimney flues. Caulk gaps around window and door frames, paying particular attention to J-channel seams in vinyl siding where wasps commonly enter. These measures prevent wasps from establishing concealed nests inside the building structure — the most difficult and expensive nests to treat.

If you have had wasp nests in wall voids previously, pay particular attention to the previous entry point and surrounding areas during your spring inspection. Wasps are attracted to the same favourable conditions year after year — sheltered cavities with solar exposure, good ventilation, and proximity to food sources. Address these conditions once and you reduce the likelihood of recurring nests. Combine structural sealing with spring inspections for the most effective prevention strategy. Homes older than 20 years often have deteriorated caulking, loose soffit panels, and cracked vent screens that create multiple entry opportunities for queen wasps seeking nest sites each spring.

Wasp Traps for Population Reduction

Deploy commercial wasp traps in early spring (April) to capture emerging queens. Position traps at the perimeter of outdoor living areas, not at the centre where they would attract wasps toward your activity space. Use a combination of sugar (fruit juice, jam) and protein (meat, fish) lures to attract multiple species. Refresh lures weekly. Spring queen trapping is the highest-value use of wasp traps because each captured queen represents an entire colony prevented. Summer trapping reduces foraging workers around your patio but cannot eliminate an established nest — think of it as population management, not nest control.

Wasp Removal Costs in Ontario

Cost by Situation

What Influences Price

Several factors determine the final cost of professional wasp removal beyond nest type. Nest accessibility is the primary driver — a nest under a ground-level deck costs less than one tucked inside a second-storey soffit that requires ladder work. Height and access difficulty increase both time on site and equipment requirements. Properties with multiple nests often receive bundled pricing where the per-nest cost decreases, since the technician is already on site with full protective equipment deployed. Emergency and weekend service typically carries a premium of $50 to $100 over a scheduled weekday visit.

The species involved also affects pricing. Yellowjacket and bald-faced hornet nests require more protective measures, more product, and longer observation periods to confirm colony elimination. A straightforward paper wasp nest on an accessible eave can be treated and removed in under 30 minutes, while a large yellowjacket ground nest may require two visits. Most companies include a seasonal warranty — if wasps re-establish at the same treated location within the coverage period, the follow-up treatment is included at no additional charge.

For comprehensive pest control pricing across all services, see our wasp nest removal cost guide and Ontario pest control cost guide. For details on our wasp treatment approach, see our wasp removal service page.

When to Call a Professional

The decision between DIY and professional removal depends on the species, nest location, colony size, and your personal risk factors. Being honest about the risks saves you from a painful and potentially dangerous experience. Most wasp-related emergency room visits happen during DIY nest removal attempts, not from incidental encounters.

Always Call a Professional For

• Any yellowjacket nest — too aggressive and colonies too large for safe DIY removal, with guards posted that will attack before you reach the nest
• Bald-faced hornet nests — extremely aggressive with a coordinated attack response and ability to sting through thin clothing
• Ground nests of any species — hidden colony size makes it impossible to judge risk before committing to treatment
• Nests inside wall voids, soffits, or attic spaces — requires specialised access, dust application equipment, and knowledge of building construction to reach the colony
• Nests accessible only with a tall ladder — combined fall risk and sting risk creates a compounded danger that kills multiple Canadians each year
• Any nest if you or a household member has a known wasp sting allergy — anaphylaxis risk makes even small nests dangerous to approach
• Nests near doorways, play areas, pools, or high-traffic zones where a failed DIY attempt creates immediate danger for family members and neighbours
• Nests larger than a softball — by this size, the colony has enough workers to mount a sustained defensive attack

DIY May Be Appropriate For

Small paper wasp nests (golf ball to tennis ball size) in early spring, located in accessible spots away from daily traffic, can be treated by a confident homeowner using commercial wasp spray from a safe distance at dusk. The key conditions are: you can positively identify the species as paper wasps (not yellowjackets or hornets), the nest is small and newly established, you have a clear retreat path, and nobody in your household has a sting allergy. Even in these situations, wear long sleeves, pants, closed shoes, and gloves. Have someone nearby who can call for help if needed. If the nest is larger than a tennis ball, if there is any uncertainty about species identification, or if the location requires a ladder, skip the DIY approach and call a professional.

Professional Advantages

Licensed pest control technicians have full protective equipment including bee suits, face shields, and gloves that eliminate sting risk during removal. They carry specialised treatment products including insecticidal dusts that reach concealed nest areas consumer sprays cannot penetrate, and commercial-grade liquid treatments with longer residual activity. Experienced technicians identify species on approach and adjust their treatment strategy accordingly — the technique for a paper wasp nest differs from the approach needed for a yellowjacket ground nest or a hornet nest in a tree cavity.

Professional companies carry liability insurance covering property damage during treatment and workers' compensation for their technicians. Most include seasonal warranties against nest re-establishment at the same location. The cost of professional removal ($150 to $500) is modest compared to the risk of multiple stings, an allergic reaction requiring emergency medical treatment, or a fall from a ladder while being stung. For most Ontario homeowners, professional wasp removal provides the safest and most reliable outcome. For broader pest management needs, our general pest control service covers a range of seasonal pest issues.

Frequently Asked Questions